Destination Guide

Your complete Thailand travel guide

The best islands, cities and street food, and the hidden gems in between, from ten years living here as an expat.

I live in Bangkok, and Thailand is the country I know better than anywhere else on earth. This page is everything I tell friends when they message me before their first trip: when to come, how to get around, what to eat, and the places I actually rate rather than the ones the algorithm does.

Use the quick facts to get oriented, steal an itinerary below, then dig into the city highlights. If you get stuck, the FAQs at the bottom cover the questions every first-timer asks me.

If you only do three things

  1. 1 Charter a long-tail through the Thonburi khlongs to the Wat Paknam Giant Buddha, the half-day most visitors miss.
  2. 2 Eat your way down Yaowarat after dark in Chinatown and Talat Noi.
  3. 3 Trade the city for an island: Koh Chang is my go-to escape from Bangkok.

Where to point yourself

Where should you go?

A very serious scientific instrument

Which Thai island are you?

Five questions. At the end you get an island, and I get to feel like a matchmaker.

How long you've got

Thailand itinerary: one week or two?

One week: the first-timer

  1. Days 1 to 3

    Bangkok. Temples and parks by day, Banthat Thong street food and Rajadamnern Muay Thai Stadium by night, and a bicycle loop of Bang Krachao if you need a breather.

  2. Day 4

    Fly north to Chiang Mai (about £25) if you want culture, or head east to Koh Chang if you want a beach.

  3. Days 5 to 7

    Chiang Mai: Doi Suthep at sunrise, Wat Pha Lat, and North Gate Jazz after dark. Or on Koh Chang: waterfalls, west-coast sunsets and not much else, which is the point.

Read the Koh Chang guide →

Two weeks: the classic loop

  1. Days 1 to 4

    Bangkok, done properly. Add Song Wat Road and a night market or two.

  2. Days 5 to 8

    Chiang Mai, with a day for the Sunday Walking Street if the timing works.

  3. Days 9 to 14

    Islands. Pick ONE coast: the Gulf for diving and parties (Koh Tao, Koh Phangan), the Andaman for scenery (Krabi, Railay, Koh Lanta). With time to spare, detour into Isan for the Thailand most tourists never see.

Browse all the island picks →

The little black book

Highlights

Where I live, and the city I never run out of: temples by day, street food and speakeasies by night.

Explore & Walks

Bars & Nightlife

  • Mutual Bar Live music in the city
  • Tropic City Award-winning cocktails
  • Havana Social Cuban speakeasy
  • Abandoned Mansion Underground jazz bar
  • Jack's Bar Cheap beers on the river
  • The Commons Thonglor Community mall & craft beer
  • Khao San Fun if you're young

Night Markets & Street Food

  • Banthat Thong Road The new street food capital
  • Train Night Market Srinakarin Vintage finds & classic cars
  • Jodd Fairs The popular, small central market

My Bangkok map, every pin in this list

Hungry yet?

What to eat in Thailand: order these first

Point at the Thai script if all else fails. Nobody will mind.

Things I wish I'd known

Essential Thailand travel tips

When to Go

Three seasons: cool, hot, and wet.

  • Nov to Feb: Cool, dry and close to perfect. Also peak: higher prices, busier islands.
  • March to May: Hot, up to 40°C. Songkran water fights in April make up for a lot.
  • June to Oct: Wet, but usually an hour of rain rather than a washout. Green, and cheaper.

Getting Around

  • In Bangkok: The BTS and MRT beat any car stuck on Sukhumvit. Cheap and air-conditioned.
  • Taxis and bikes: Meter on, or get out. Grab settles the price before you move.
  • Inter-city: Domestic flights often run £20 to £30. Sleeper trains north are slower and better.

Culture & Etiquette

  • The wai: The prayer-like greeting. A nod is fine as a visitor, but return one if given.
  • Presentation: Thais are immaculate. Look presentable, even in the humidity.
  • Keep your cool: Raised voices lose you the room. Politeness goes a very long way here.
  • Temples: Shoulders and knees covered, shoes off before the main hall.

Money & Budget

  • Cash is king: Malls take cards. Street food, tuk tuks and markets want notes.
  • 7-Eleven: Pay bills, buy a SIM, eat a toastie. The lifeline.
  • ATMs: 220 THB fee on foreign cards, every single withdrawal.

Longer reads

Thailand blog posts

Before you message me

Thailand travel guide FAQs

Do I need a visa?

Most passport holders from the UK, USA, EU and Australia currently get a 60-day visa exemption on arrival, extendable once for 30 days at a local immigration office for 1,900 THB. Thailand has approved cutting this back to 30 days, so confirm the current rule before you travel.

Is street food safe to eat?

Yes, and you can often watch it cooked fresh in front of you. My golden rule: eat where the locals are queuing. High turnover means fresh ingredients; if food is sitting there with no customers, skip it.

Do I need a scooter license?

You need an International Driving Permit (IDP) to ride legally in Thailand. Many tourists rent without one, but police checkpoints are common and your travel insurance is void if you have an accident without a license.

Which SIM card should I get?

Thailand has incredibly fast 5G. AIS and TrueMove are the best providers. Buy a tourist SIM at the airport, a 7-Eleven, or an AIS shop, or install an e-SIM online before you arrive.

Is it safe for solo travellers?

Incredibly safe. Violent crime against tourists is very rare; the biggest danger is road accidents, so always wear a helmet.

Is Thailand expensive?

No, it is still one of the best-value countries anywhere. Street food meals run 60 to 100 THB, a comfortable double room 800 to 1,500 THB, and a Grab across town costs a couple of pounds. Backpackers get by on roughly £30 a day, and £60 to £80 a day travels very comfortably.

How many days do I need in Thailand?

Ten days to two weeks is the sweet spot for a first trip: three or four nights in Bangkok, then split the rest between the north (Chiang Mai) and an island. One week works too if you pick a single region instead of trying to see everything.

The newsletter

Get the monthly dispatch

One email a month: useful things I have picked up from travelling, places worth knowing about, and anything new I have published. No spam, unsubscribe anytime.