Destination Guide
Your complete Taiwan travel guide
Night markets, mountain railways and hot springs, and why it is Asia's most underrated island, from a year spent living there.
Taiwan is the most underrated country in Asia, and I say that having lived there for the best part of a year. Night markets that ruin you for food anywhere else, bullet trains, volcanic hot springs, and cliffs that drop straight into the Pacific, usually with no queue in sight.
This page is the trip I would plan for a friend: where to base yourself, how to get around, what to order, and the things I would never skip. Start with the itineraries, then dig into the city highlights below.
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If you only do three things
- 1 Spend a day at Fo Guang Shan, the monastery that stopped me in my tracks.
- 2 Stay overnight at Alishan for the sunrise sea of clouds.
- 3 Eat your way down Raohe Night Market in Taipei, starting with the pepper buns at the gate.
- Best time to visitNovember to April (cool & dry)
- CurrencyNew Taiwan Dollar (NTD)
- Visa90-day exemption (most UK/EU/US)
- Best nightlife & shoppingTaipei
- Best local city vibeKaohsiung
- Best mountain getawayAlishan
Where to point yourself
Where should you go?
-
01 Northern Taiwan (Taipei) Night markets, hot springs, big city energy -
02 Central Taiwan Alishan, Sun Moon Lake and bubble tea -
03 Southern Taiwan (Kaohsiung) My old stomping ground, and the food capital next door -
04 Eastern Coast (Hualien) Cliffs, empty highways and the wild Pacific
A very serious scientific instrument
Which Taiwan city are you?
Five questions. At the end you get a city, and I get to feel like a matchmaker.
How long you've got
Taiwan itinerary: one week or two?
One week: the classic loop
- Days 1 to 3
Taipei. Night markets, Beitou hot springs, and the Elephant Mountain sunset hike for that Taipei 101 photo.
- Day 4
High Speed Rail south to Kaohsiung. It takes 90 minutes and the train is half the fun.
- Days 4 to 5
Kaohsiung: Pier-2, Cijin Island at sunset, and a day trip to Fo Guang Shan monastery.
- Days 6 to 7
Tainan, 40 minutes back up the line. Eat everything, see the Dutch forts, then HSR home.
Two weeks: mountains and coast
- Days 1 to 7
The one-week loop above, at a gentler pace.
- Days 8 to 9
Taichung for Rainbow Village and the original bubble tea, then on to Sun Moon Lake.
- Days 10 to 11
Alishan. Stay overnight for the sunrise sea of clouds; it is the best thing in Taiwan.
- Days 12 to 14
Hualien and the east coast: Qingshui Cliffs, Qixingtan Beach and the drive down Highway 11.
The little black book
Highlights
My old stomping ground: a harbour arts district, lantern-lit temples, and warmer, cheaper and friendlier than the north.
Explore & Culture
- The Dragon & Tiger Pagodas Lotus Pond
- Fo Guang Shan Monastery A must-visit day trip
- Pier-2 Art Center Warehouses turned galleries
- Cijin Island For the sunset ferry ride
- The Dome of Light Formosa Boulevard Station
- Weiwuying National Center for the Arts
Bars & Night Markets
- Gongguan Night Market More local than Liuhe
- Ruifeng Night Market Where the locals go
- Rooftop at Hotel Indigo Pier-2 views
- Cijin Sunset Bar Beach vibes
- Kaohsiung Main Public Library Great views at night
Nature & Escapes
- Shoushan (Monkey Mountain) Hiking with macaques
- Love River Evening walks
- Central Park Green space in the city
- Secret Beach IYKYK
The capital: night markets, hot springs and hidden speakeasies, with volcano-and-mountain trails on the doorstep.
Explore & Culture
- Dihua Street Old Taipei architecture & dried goods
- Huashan 1914 Creative Park Former winery turned hipster art space
- Songshan Cultural Park Tobacco factory turned design hub
- Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Incredible large temple grounds
- Taipei 101 Observatory Touristy, but the view is unmatched
Bars & Hangouts
- Revolver The legendary dive bar every expat ends up at
- Raohe Night Market A Taipei classic
- Ounce Hidden speakeasy behind an espresso machine
- Frank Taipei Rooftop drinks with face-to-face views of 101
- Addiction Aquatic Development Standing sushi bar with incredible fresh seafood
- Ningxia Night Market Smaller, food-focused, loved by locals
Nature & Day Trips
- Elephant Mountain (Xiangshan) The classic sunset hike for that photo
- Yangmingshan National Park Volcanic vents, sulfur smells, and hiking
- Beitou Hot Springs Public baths that are cheap, authentic, and strict
- Maokong Gondola Ride up for tea plantations and city views
- Da'an Forest Park The Central Park of Taipei, great for people watching
Central Taiwan: art, the original bubble tea, and the biggest night market on the island.
Explore & Culture
- Rainbow Village A military village hand-painted by one man
- National Taichung Theater Toyo Ito's curvy concrete masterpiece
- Miyahara An old eye hospital, now ice cream and gifts
- Zhongshe Flower Market Photo-perfect fields of flowers
- Chun Shui Tang Where bubble tea was invented
Night Markets & Eats
- Fengjia Night Market Taiwan's biggest, and a proper food adventure
- Yizhong Street Student energy and cheap eats
Nature & Day Trips
- Gaomei Wetlands Boardwalk sunsets and wind turbines
- Sun Moon Lake Taiwan's most famous lake, about an hour away
- Dakeng Trails Hiking right on the city edge
Taiwan's oldest city, and its food capital. Come hungry.
Explore & Culture
- Anping Tree House A warehouse swallowed whole by banyan roots
- Anping Old Fort Built by the Dutch in 1624
- Shennong Street The prettiest old lane in Taiwan
- Chihkan Tower Another Dutch-era landmark
- Hayashi Store A restored 1930s art-deco department store
- Confucius Temple Taiwan's first, from 1665
Street Food & Markets
- Guohua Street A street-food gauntlet of local classics
- Coffin Bread A deep-fried Tainan original
- Danzai Noodles The city's signature bowl
- Garden Night Market Huge, but only Thu, Sat and Sun
Taiwan's wild side. Heads up: Taroko Gorge is still largely closed for earthquake repairs, with timed road entry only.
Coast & Nature
- Qingshui Cliffs Cliffs dropping straight into the Pacific
- Qixingtan Beach A crescent of pebbles under the mountains
- Liyu Lake Kayaking and a flat lakeside cycle
- Highway 11 One of the best coastal drives in Asia
- Sixty Stone Mountain Orange daylily fields, best in August
Hungry yet?
What to eat in Taiwan: order these first
Point at the characters if all else fails. Night market vendors have seen worse.
- 牛肉麵 Beef noodle soup say "nyoh roh myen"
The national dish: slow-braised beef in a rich broth. Every local has a fierce opinion on the best bowl.
- 小籠包 Xiao long bao say "shyow long bao"
Soup dumplings. Din Tai Fung is the famous one, but the no-name shops often do it just as well for half the price.
- 刈包 Gua bao say "gwah bao"
Braised pork belly, pickled greens and peanut powder in a steamed bun. The original Taiwanese burger.
- 蔥抓餅 Scallion pancake say "tsong jwah bing"
Flaky, fried and best with an egg folded in. Follow the queue of students; they know.
- 珍珠奶茶 Bubble tea say "jen ju nai cha"
Invented in Taichung at Chun Shui Tang. Order it half sugar, less ice, like you have done this before.
- 臭豆腐 Stinky tofu say "cho doh foo"
Smells like a dare, tastes like a win. Every night market has a stall; go fried first, soup version later.
Things I wish I'd known
Essential Taiwan travel tips
When to Go
Avoid typhoon season and you are laughing.
- Nov to Apr: The sweet spot. The humidity drops and walking around becomes a pleasure.
- June to Oct: Hot, sticky, typhoon season. When one lands, the island shuts.
- Cherry blossoms: February and March, and Alishan does them as well as Japan.
Getting Around
- The HSR: Taipei to Kaohsiung in 90 minutes on a bullet train. Book early for the discount.
- The EasyCard: Buy one at the airport. MRT, buses, and your 7-Eleven coffee.
- Taxis and Uber: Both legal, everywhere, and safe. Meters are standard in the yellow cabs.
The Convenience Culture
- 7-Eleven is life: Pay bills, print documents, ship parcels, eat properly. Not a petrol station.
- Pre-drinks and afters: A cold Taiwan lager on a stool outside is a legitimate night out here.
Money & Budget
- How much: Budget NT$2,000 (~£50) a day, mid-range NT$4,000 (~£100). Street food NT$80 to 180.
- Cash vs card: Cash for night markets and small shops. Cards for hotels, malls and chains.
- No tipping: None at all. The price you see is the price you pay.
Longer reads
Taiwan blog posts
-
Taiwan Guides Things to Do in Kaohsiung: Why Taiwan's Southern City Deserves Your Time -
Taiwan Guides How Many Days Do You Need in Taiwan? An Honest Answer -
Taiwan Guides Fo Guang Shan: A Guide to Taiwan's Largest Buddhist Monastery - Taiwan Guides The Ultimate Guide to Alishan, Taiwan
-
Taiwan Guides Top Things to Do in Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan -
Taiwan Guides Taiwan Itinerary: Lotus Pond, Kaohsiung
Before you message me
Taiwan travel guide FAQs
Do I need a visa?
Most Western passport holders (UK, USA, EU, Canada, Australia, NZ) get a 90-day visa exemption on arrival. Important: you must have proof of an onward flight to check in at your departure airport, as airlines are strict and will often deny boarding with a one-way ticket.
Is there an internet firewall like in China?
No. Taiwan has uncensored, high-speed internet. You do not need a VPN to access Google, Facebook, Instagram, or Netflix.
Do people speak English?
In Taipei, yes. Most young people and service staff speak decent English, and the MRT and signage are bilingual. Once you leave Taipei or head south to Kaohsiung, English becomes much less common.
Is Taiwan safe?
Taiwan is one of the safest places I have travelled. You could leave your laptop on a cafe table, go to the bathroom, and it would likely still be there. Solo walking at night is perfectly normal and safe.
Is Taiwan worth visiting?
Absolutely, and I would argue it is the most underrated destination in Asia. You get Japan-level food and trains at a fraction of the price, world-class hiking and hot springs, and some of the friendliest people anywhere, all without the crowds.
How many days do I need in Taiwan?
Seven days covers the classic loop: Taipei, then the High Speed Rail south to Kaohsiung and Tainan. Ten days to two weeks lets you add Alishan, Sun Moon Lake and the wild east coast without rushing.