A Travel Blogger's Guide to Taghazout, Morocco

Taghazout is a small fishing village turned surf town on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, about 45 minutes north of Agadir. Once just a cluster of blue-and-white houses above the beach, it has become one of the country’s most laid-back travel spots, where surfers, yogis, hipsters and digital nomads all wash up for the waves, the slow pace and the year-round sun.

I spent a few weeks there one December to see what the fuss was about. This guide covers what I learned: how to get there, the best things to do, where to surf, eat, shop and find a beer, plus the practical bits most guides skip. If you’re after more spots like this, you’ll find them in my travel guides.

What and where is Taghazout?

Although a growing tourist destination, Taghazout still has the air of a newly discovered land. The village is a tangle of streets with whitewashed walls and blue shutters matching the sky, interspersed with vibrant colours from shops and villagers laying out their wares.

The new developments are a mile or so from the main village and, with their large hotels, will attract a different crowd. I’d encourage you to visit soon, as with any up and coming travel destination there could end up being too many tourists and the local vibe diluted.

Getting to Taghazout

The closest airport to Taghazout is Agadir Al Massira (AGA), around 45 km and roughly a 45-minute drive away. You can also check for flights into Essaouira, which is a few hours north by car.

Taghazout, like other towns and villages throughout Morocco, can be reached by bus, but you’ll need a taxi to and from the village to reach the bus station. I’d recommend organising a taxi through your hotel or hostel for an easier journey. A grand taxi from Agadir runs around 300 MAD (roughly 28 EUR) for up to six people, though you could end up paying more flagging one down outside the airport.

The currency is the Moroccan Dirham (MAD). It is a closed currency, meaning it’s only really available in Morocco, though some major airports and travel agencies may be able to exchange it. There are very few ATMs away from the major towns, and while cards are accepted more widely than they used to be, you’ll definitely need cash, so pick some up at the airport. To avoid losing money on poor rates, it’s worth reading up on how to get the best exchange rate before you fly. Some hotels, restaurants and even taxis will accept Euros if you’re stuck.

Things to do in Taghazout

Taghazout is small, but there’s more to it than the waves. Here’s how to fill your days, in and out of the water.

Surfing

The Taghazout region boasts some of the best surf beaches in Morocco. There are several surf camps offering packages from beginner to experienced. Make sure you know exactly what you are paying for, as some packages advertise a whole day when the tuition is only for half of it. You might also find you only want to surf a few days a week rather than daily, which can be cheaper booked outside a package.

Panorama beach is a 5-minute walk from the main street and great for learning, as the waves run straight onto the sandy beach. Others like Hash Point are good for surfers new to rocky breaks and just 5 minutes by car.

If you aren’t familiar with the different points, it’s worth paying for a “surf safari” where you’ll get taken to wherever the waves are best that day. Who knows where you’ll end up: Anchor, Dracula’s or Killer Point!

One boring but worthwhile check before you book anything: surfing counts as a sport on a lot of travel insurance policies, and rocky breaks like Hash Point are exactly where people come off badly. Make sure yours covers it rather than finding out afterwards. SafetyWing is what I travel on.

Yoga

Start your day with yoga in a rooftop room overlooking the ocean, or on the terrace outside. Surf and yoga go hand in hand in Taghazout, with many surf houses and camps offering it, often with drop-in sessions if you’re not actually staying there.

There are some exceptional yoga teachers in Taghazout, and the sunrise classes offer a quieter space and the chance for some meditation.

Paradise Valley

Paradise Valley is probably the cheapest excursion and definitely the biggest contrast to the bustle of the surf. It’s a section of the Tamraght river valley at the foot of the High Atlas mountains.

A palm-tree-lined river gorge that doesn’t disappoint, you can walk the trails and cool off in the many waterfalls. If that sounds too tame, there’s always the adrenaline rush of jumping off the rocks into the pools. Remember to bring plenty of water, as it gets very hot in the valley.

Taghazout Skatepark

Okay, it’s related to surfing. But this skatepark was created on public ground with and for the local community, with help from volunteers around the world. The Taghazout Skatepark Association was formed from local government, business and youth associations, and as well as running it day to day, it offers skateboard classes with donated boards for local kids.

The park is open from 8am to 8pm, about a 10-minute walk from the centre of the village, and the view from the top of the hill is worth the trip on its own.

Photography

The streets are narrow and make perfect frames for your shots. Walk along the beach to find the rows of fishermen’s boats, or capture the contrast of a camel and its owner watching the surfers. With pretty much every building having a rooftop terrace, the possibilities are endless.

Working remotely from Taghazout

I was pleasantly surprised by the speed of the WiFi where I stayed. But I couldn’t recommend coming here for digital nomads who like to cafe hop, due to unreliable internet in general. If working remotely is your thing, you might like the rest of my work from anywhere resources for life on the road.

If you want to work, you’ll need to base yourself somewhere reliable, such as AdventureKeys Hostel (dorms from 15 EUR, private double from 25 EUR), or a dedicated coworking space such as SunDesk (dorms from 22 EUR, private single from 32 EUR).

Both are great options for different crowds, with equally reliable WiFi. With SunDesk you’ll get a calmer crowd, a comfy coworking space and a strong focus on productivity. AdventureKeys is primarily a large surf hostel, so you’ll get the usual hostel crowd and plenty of chances to socialise, but it still offers a quiet coworking space and an epic view.

Where to eat in Taghazout

There is a great mix of restaurants and cafes overlooking the water, serving anything from classic Moroccan cuisine to American fast food.

A word of caution: Morocco is renowned for food poisoning. It may not necessarily be bad food, just your body reacting to different bacteria. Take precautions, don’t drink the tap water, be careful of open buffet-type food, all the usual advice when travelling. Stay hydrated.

@ World of Waves Beachfront Cafe (eating something familiar because my stomach felt dodgy)

Where to shop in Taghazout (supermarkets and groceries)

Is there a supermarket in Taghazout? Not a large one. The village runs on small local shops, the corner hanouts where you can pick up water, snacks, bread and the basics. For a proper supermarket you’ll head to neighbouring Tamraght or into Agadir, around 40 minutes away, where you’ll find the big Moroccan chains like Carrefour, Marjane, Aswak Assalam and BIM.

For fresh fruit and veg, there’s a small produce market at the top of the village on Tuesday mornings: cheap, local and worth a wander. The Banana Village stretch (Aourir) on the road towards Agadir also has more shops if you’re staying a while.

One thing to know: you won’t find alcohol in the village shops. If you want a bottle for your accommodation, the Carrefour or Uniprix in Agadir are the places to pick it up.

Drinking alcohol in Taghazout

Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country which follows Islamic laws and customs. Alcohol is served in licensed hotels and bars, but you must drink it on the premises. Drinking alcohol in the street isn’t allowed and can lead to arrest.

You won’t find much alcohol served at all in Taghazout, and none in the local shops.

A few posh hotel restaurants will serve alcohol with food, but my favourite spot for a beer while watching the sunset was a secret outdoor bar at the D’frost Almugar hotel. You can also reach the bar via the beach.

Another way to buy alcohol for drinking indoors is a trip to a large supermarket in Agadir. There are other ways you’ll come across passing certain local vendors on the street, but I wouldn’t recommend taking the risk.

I had a few fun nights drinking at AdventureKeys Hostel with new friends and sharing a taxi to a couple of bars in Agadir. But for the most part, I came to Taghazout to relax.

If you do drink, do so responsibly and don’t appear visibly drunk on the streets, both for your own safety and out of respect to the locals.